|
Joseph E.
Tegeder
The University of Southern Mississippi at Stennis Space Center
Department of Marine Science
1020 Balch Blvd.
Stennis Space Center, MS. 39529
(228) 688-7598
 
News

Joe is currently
on his way to Antarctica on a scientific expedition related to his
thesis work.

 

http://www.polarstar.org/
General Information about my
experiences:
- Bachelor's degree in Marine Science from
the University of Hawaii at Hilo May 1998
- Graduate Certificate in Maritime
Archaeology and History from the University of Hawaii at Manoa
December 1999
- Worked as a Divemaster for Midway Sport
Fishing and Diving on Midway Atoll Summer 1998 and 1999
- Masters degree student at The University
of Southern Mississippi at Stennis Space Center in Geological
Oceanography Fall 2000 - Present
Current Thesis Topic:
Interannual variability of nutrients and the seasonal production of
phytoplankton in the Southern Ross Sea, Antarctica.
For more information about cool stuff that I
have done, view my resumé.
|
Photographer:
Doug Thost
A gold moon rises over
grounded bergs in Prydz Bay
|
|
|
  

Tasmania - The
Way South
Hobart, Tasmania
Joe Tegeder
[tegeder@hotmail.com]
12/1/01
 
Hello everyone,
After a long few days, I've arrived. This
place is very nice. Where to
begin, ....
First off, I fly out of Gulfport to Atlanta.
Delta Airlines could not do
diddly squat for me except check my bag
through to Melbourne. So when I
arrived in Atlanta, I had to go to the
American counter to get my boarding
passes for the rest of my trip. Well, I came
to find out that I needed a
visa to enter Australia. No one that is going
on this trip new about
it...in fact, I specifically asked that
question at one point many months
ago. Anyway, since this occurrence was very
odd in Atlanta, the nice lady
behind the counter had to learn from a
computer print out (which by the way
American Airlines is still using Dot
matrix...get into the new century).
After about an hour, angry passengers waiting
behind me and the third and
final boarding call for my flight to Dallas,
she got the Visa. Now, I'm off
to Dallas. I get to Dallas and Try to get the
rest of my Boarding
passes....yep, not even Atlanta could give me
passes for Quantus. Well,
they eventually do it.
So, By the time I got to LAX, I was pretty
tired. I was going to have a few
of you (Karie, Ang and possibly Richie) meet
me at the airport, but due to
security we said probably not a good idea. But
what we did not realize was
that every international passenger connecting
at LAX must go back out and
walk to the International terminal. This means
that I had to go back
through the security gates. Now, this was no
big deal in Gulfport, but
LAX....you could have put a sign out front
saying San Diego Zoo and no one
would have realized it. My god, the line for
the gate was over 300 yards
long and took over an hour to get through it.
See, you guys could have
stood in line with me. It was not to bad, I
talked to the nice Sydney
couple that were on there way home from a
Hawaiian cruise of all things.
By the way, have I mentioned the National
Guardsmen w/ big guns...yup but I
only saw a few.
After the very long plane trip from LAX (which
by the way is the longest
commercial flight there is...over 15 hrs) I
was ready to arrive. Good thing
about the trip was...5 movies (3 of which I
had not seen) Seinfeld episode
where George pees in shower and the news...oh,
did I mention the hot blond
Australian Girl two rows back. Why is it that
they never sit next to me?
Also, Quantas...best airlines around. People
very nice, food pretty good,
roomy...sort of and I finally after all of
these years scored one of them
free toothpaste/eye cover packs w/ a pair of
socks.
I'm getting off track, Melbourne, cleared
customs but had to declare my
grandmothers chocolate cookies. OOps. Tasmania
is nice. It is overcast
and about 55-60 ish. I'm currently staying at
a hostel right downtown b/c
it turns out that the dive shop never got my
last e-mail w/ my flight info.
Why you ask? Another story but the short end
is that right before I left my
office on Thursday, I discovered that my
computer had a virus...why, the guy
at the dive shop accidentally sent me that
worm virus which that same day I
received a warning from the USM Computer techs
about. Wow. Who would have
thought. So much for Hotmail checking
attachments for viruses.
I'm going now, I'm at a coffee shop in town
and I want to go to the pub next
door that is plastered (no pun intended) w/
Guinness stuff (Sorry Kevin, this
one is for you). I'm being picked up tomorrow
morning to go diving. Wish
me luck, I'm praying that they will have a wet
suit for my big butt
otherwise, prepare for a short dive...very
short. Bye for now and I'll try
and send photo's later in the week.
Mom, I'm ok...stop worrying please. This place
is nicer and more friendly
than anywhere in the U.S.
   
Miss you all and Kevin I'll see you on the 8th
right? Your plane is due in
at 12 noon right. If I can get away, I'll try
and go meet you. Otherwise,
take the shuttle into town, not a cab. The
shuttle costs 8.40 Aust.
dollars.
Joe
Hello
everyone, I wanted to let you all know that you should go to this
site. It is for the ship that I will be sailing on. On it, under
Gen Info, there is information about e-mailing me as well as a
section to track the ship while it is at sea. So beginning around
Dec. 11th you will be able to know where I am at be going to this
site. Dad, I know you will love this.
http://www.polarstar.org/
Love you guys,
Joe
Hello all, I
will keep this short, running out of time, but I made it to
Hobart.
Hello
everyone,
I hope all is
well there. I'm still here in Hobart until the 11th. I moved on
board the ship yesterday. To my surprise, I get the pleasure of
rooming with my advisor and some other guy who has not showed up
yet. The other amazing thing about this situation are the bunks.
They are stacked on top of one another and I get the bottom.
Actually I was assigned the top bunk but my advisor pulled rank and
put me in the middle. Then last night, I
heard from one
of the cadets that for the Antarctic Circle crossing, you want to be
as close to the floor as possible. So, I woke up this morning and
moved to the bottom bunk. The other guy can squeeze into the middle
bunk.
Last night was
very interesting. The coast guard took over a pub here in town
called "Irish Murphy's". Three of the Coast Guard people were being
promoted and it is tradition that when that happens, you take a
portion of your increase in pay and you buy everyone onboard
drinks. Therefore, ~$6000 U.S. Dollars was given to the bar and we
drank until it was gone. Believe it or not, the bar tab was closed
out by 10:30 pm. I'm kind of thinking that it was a lot less than
6000. But it was a lot and I got 4 drinks out
of it. Go
Coast Guard!
I hope you all
enjoy the pictures. I'm off to go work now. Take care and I'll be
in touch.
Hello
everyone,
I hope all is well there. I'm still here in Hobart until the 11th.
I moved
on board the ship yesterday. To my surprise, I get the pleasure of
rooming
with my advisor and some other guy who has not showed up yet. The
other
amazing thing about this situation are the bunks. They are stacked
on top
of one another and I get the bottom. Actually I was assigned the
top bunk
but my advisor pulled rank and put me in the middle. Then last
night, I
heard from one of the cadets that for the Antarctic Circle crossing,
you
want to be as close to the floor as possible. So, I woke up this
morning
and moved to the bottom bunk. The other guy can squeeze into the
middle
bunk.
Last night was very interesting. The coast guard took over a pub
here in
town called "Irish Murphy's". Three of the Coast Guard people were
being
promoted and it is tradition that when that happens, you take a
portion of
your increase in pay and you buy everyone onboard drinks.
Therefore, ~$6000
U.S. Dollars was given to the bar and we drank until it was gone.
Believe
it or not, the bar tab was closed out by 10:30 pm. I'm kind of
thinking
that it was a lot less than 6000. But it was a lot and I got 4
drinks out
of it. Go Coast Guard!
I hope you all enjoy the pictures. I'm off to go work now. Take
care and
I'll be in touch.
Joe
Hello
everyone,
After a long
few days, I've arrived. This place is very nice. Where to
begin, ....
First off, I
fly out of Gulfport to Atlanta. Delta Airlines could not do diddly
squat for me except check my bag through to Melbourne. So when I
arrived in Atlanta, I had to go to the American counter to get my
boarding
passes for the
rest of my trip. Well, I came to find out that I needed a visa to
enter Australia. No one that is going on this trip new about
it...in fact, I specifically asked that question at one point many
months ago. Anyway, since this occurrence was very odd in Atlanta,
the nice lady
behind the
counter had to learn from a computer print out (which by the way
American Airlines is still using Dot matrix...get into the new
century). After about an hour, angry passengers waiting behind me
and the third and
final boarding
call for my flight to Dallas, she got the Visa. Now, I'm off to
Dallas. I get to Dallas and Try to get the rest of my Boarding
passes....yep, not even Atlanta could give me passes for Quantus.
Well, they eventually do it.
So, By the
time I got to LAX, I was pretty tired. I was going to have a few
of you (Karie,
Ang and possibly Richie) meet me at the airport, but due to security
we said probably not a good idea. But what we did not realize was
that every international passenger connecting at LAX must go back
out and walk to the International terminal. This means that I had
to go back through the security gates. Now, this was no big deal in
Gulfport, but LAX....you could have put a sign out front saying San
Diego Zoo and no one would have realized it. My god, the line for
the gate was over 300 yards long and took over an hour to get
through it. See, you guys could have stood in line with me. It was
not to bad, I talked to the nice Sydney couple that were on there
way home from a Hawaiian cruise of all things.
By the way,
have I mentioned the National Guardsmen w/ big guns...yup but I only
saw a few.
After the very
long plane trip from LAX (which by the way is the longest commercial
flight there is...over 15 hrs) I was ready to arrive. Good thing
about the trip was...5 movies (3 of which I had not seen) Sienfeld
episode where George pees in shower and the news...oh, did I mention
the hot blond Australian Girl two rows back..why is it that they
never sit next to me? Also, Quanta...best airlines around. People
very nice, food pretty good, roommy...sort of and I finally after
all of these years scored one of them free toothpaste/eye cover
packs w/ a pair of socks.
I'm getting
off track, Melbourne, cleared customs but had to declare my
grandmothers chocolate cookies. OOps. Tasmania is nice. It is
overcast and about 55-60 ish. I'm currently staying at a hostel
right downtown b/c it turns out that the dive shop never got my last
e-mail w/ my flight info. Why you ask? Another story but the short
end is that right before I left my office on Thursday, I discovered
that my computer had a virus...why, the guy
at the dive
shop accidentally sent me that worm virus which that same day I
received a warning from the USM Computer techs about. Wow. Who
would have thought. So much for Hotmail checking attachments for
viruses.
I'm going now,
I'm at a coffee shop in town and I want to go to the pub next door
that is plastered (no pun intended) w/ Guiness stuff (Sorry Kevin,
this one is for you). I'm being picked up tomorrow morning to go
diving. Wish
me luck, I'm
praying that they will have a wet suit for my big butt
otherwise,
prepare for a short dive...very short. Bye for now and I'll try and
send photo's later in the week.
Mom, I'm
ok...stop worrying please. This place is nicer and more friendly
than anywhere in the U.S.
Miss you all
and Kevin I'll see you on the 8th right? Your plane is due in at 12
noon right. If I can get away, I'll try and go meet you.
Otherwise, take the shuttle into town, not a cab. The shuttle costs
8.40 Aust. dollars.
Joe
Hello
I'm alive and
loving it down here in Tasmania. The people and the country are
fantastic. I went diving today off the Tasmanian Peninsula.
Water Temp. was a balmy 14 C. I wore a 7 ml w/ a hood. It was
actually 14 ml in the chest. For you non-divers, that's a pretty
thick suit, just short of a dry suit. Due to weather
conditions, the best divers were not accessible, but the dive
captain found a place called Studio 1. It was named that b/c
that is where they brought David Doubelet from National Geographic
to shoot for the Jan. 97' issue. Funny thing about that is,
that is the issue that made me want to dive here. I had no idea that
this was the shop, or the place where it took place. It's kind
of funny...at least I think so, because the only reason why I saw
the magazine in the first place was because I needed a root canal
done in Hilo, Hawaii. At the time, I was bummed but now, after
today's dive, I'm excited. The dive was a kelp forest dive
that had boulders with big crevices for animals to hide in. Due to
the recent storms, the kelp had been torn away from their holdfasts
and were floating over the bottom. As my buddy and I
descended, I was thinking to myself, let me see the Weedy Sea Dragon
and I'll be happy. First thing I did was to swim to a boulder
and poke my head into a hole. To my delight, I find 2 lobsters. I
show my dive buddy and she notices the 2 Gummy Sharks resting right
below the lobsters. No, these will not eat you. They are only about
2-3 feet long. From there, I figured it would be best to swim
to the deeper part of the bay and try to see the Sea Dragons (~18
meters...multiply by 3.3 ft for your conversion). Once we got there,
I spot my first one. It was a Juvenile and was a brownish red
with a tint of green (like the Macrocystis....the kelp). I was so
happy that I was yelling to my buddy. Oops, that caused me to use up
a lot of air. So, we began our trip to the shallower water.
There, we saw another Sea Dragon. This one was over a foot long and
had no eggs, therefore the dive boat captain told me that it was
probably a female. The colors of red and purple on this thing are a
sight to see. By this point, my buddy and I are getting pretty
cold, so we begin ascending to our safety stop (5m for 3 min.).
Here, I notice a iridescent blue milky thing wedged between the
boulder and the kelp. It was a Lion's Main Jelly fish. Another great
find. The important thing to know here is that this was a dive that
we did b/c the conditions were bad at their other sites. If
this was bad, I can only imagine what the wreck dive or the blue
couldron is like. I highly recommend this country and the
diving here for everyone. If you want to dive here, go to Eaglehawk
Neck Dive center (it's on the web) and check it out. They even
have lodging available for about $4.50 US a night. That is where I
stayed. Sorry, but I have to go, my time is up. I'm currently in
Hobart staying at the Pickled Frog Hostel. I'll be getting on the
boat on the 8th. Sorry no photo's but no CD-Rom on this machine.
Shortly, I promise.
Hello Everyone,
I am on the ship and we are on
our way. We are expected to cross the Antarctic Circle in 6 days
(hazing time for over 100 people on this trip) and rough bumpy
weather is expected at any moment. The temperature outside is about
55-60 F and it is partly cloudy with the occasional drizzle. Lat.
43 21.49 S and 147 34.51 E. The last few days I have spent in port
getting things put together and tied down for this crossing. For
those of you who do not know, the Antarctic Circumpolar Current is
the only body of water that circulates the globe. This means that
sea conditions in general can be quite rough. I have never been sea
sick before (knock on wood), but I put on a patch just in case.
Since underway, we have taken
part in a welcoming ceremony for ourselves, as well as for cadets
from both the U.S. Coast Guard Academy, the U.S. Naval Academy and
the New Zealand Navy. Their welcome was pretty funny actually,
because they were all wearing hats from their respective
affiliations and they were given USCGS Polar Star Hats. You
probably had to be there. After that, we did emergency drills,
complete with trying on a survival suite, which is affectionately
nicknamed as "the Gumby Suite". I may send a pic. of it
eventually.
As for pictures, I'm not really
sure what the protocol is at this time. I am going to ask around a
bit more before I go and send off photo's from the ship.
As for replying to this message
and any other message in the future, please do so. But it is
important that you do not send me any attachments, large files and
please delete the previous message and all of the addresses on your
message. If you have any questions about it or would like to follow
the ships cruise track, you can do a search for the U.S. Coast Guard
Icebreaker "The Polar Star" on the internet. When you get to the
site, look under general information and there are e-mail
directions, as well as an option for cruise track.
That is about it for today. My
sea sickness patch is making me drowsy. More later.
Joe
Hello Everyone
I'm not sure if you guys
received my message yesterday b/c it was sent back to me. Please
let me know if you guys received it or not. It was about my first
day on the ship. It seems as if my address book may be to large.
How sad is that? Also, dad, please send me Cubie's e-mail again.
It is also important that when
you guys reply to this that you do not send any attachments or any
of the previous message, including all of the addresses. Dad, that
means you need to take your signature off (all 10 pages of it). The
band width for the ship is very small.
Anyway, things have been quite
bumpy and last night there was even a small fire in the Incinerator
room. We had to gather at our emergency stations (mine is in the
Helicopter Hanger). After about 20 min. everything was secured and
I went to bed.
As for everything else, it is
great. We are expected to arrive at our station in about 8 days or
so. I'll keep you posted. I'm going now. Take care,
Love and miss you all. Joe
Hello Everyone
I had a pretty good nights sleep
last night. I through my pillow on the floor and I seemed to sleep
better. I'm kind of thinking that I may be allergic to the down
pillow, but I've never had any problems with my duvet at home.
Maybe it's the disgusting old towel that I brought w/ me thinking
that I would only use it for a few days (It's all I got now). Too
bad for me.
Yesterday I had the distinct
pleasure of re-calibrating my instruments for no reason at all. My
advisor wanted us to. Have you ever tried dealing with water on a
boat, with no gloves on, with a wind chill in the 40's. It is not
very fun. Anyway, I think he may be satisfied with it now. He
better be anyway. I asked one of the helicopter pilots afterwards
where the plank was b/c either myself or someone else will be
walking it shortly. If you can not tell, I'm a bit stressed at the
moment. It's hard not to be when your advisor is around you every
single moment of the day. As Gloria Gaynor would say, "I will
survive"!
Well, enough of that. You
better write me back. One day out at sea is like 15 on land!
Hello Mom and Dad,
I'm doing ok. I caught a cold, but I think it is on it's way out.
As for everything else, it is the usual trying to communicate with
my advisor. Staying in the same room with him does not help much.
I'm trying to enjoy this trip but I keep getting stressed out b/c of
him. It is kind of crappy but I don't know what else to do about
it. I'm hoping that things will improve over the next day or so.
Well, I have to go fix some stuff that we changed yesterday for no
reason at all. Talk with you soon.
Love Joey
Hey dad and mom,
I
just wrote to mom, but I'll write again. First off, Kevin did make
it the next day. He is on board. He had troubles getting out of
Gulfport and Atlanta. Gulfport was for plane problems and in
Atlanta a passenger started to smoke in his seat. Those problems
caused him to miss everyone of his connections and he was forced to
fly standby all the way to Hobart.
As for where we are, our Lat. is 56 degrees 53 minutes South and the
longitude is 167 degrees 52 minutes East. We are traveling South at
about 16 knots.
I'm going to check my laundry now. I'm hearing that we will cross
the Circle on Sunday and we will not be "Hazed"....they prefer to
call it a ceremony...yeah right! It should be a cold one.
Love you guys,
Joe
Hello everyone,
I just wanted to send a quick
message before I head off to bed. I'm at 57 degrees 23' S and 168
degrees 04' E. We are heading South at about 15 knots. The water
temp. is ~ 6.5 C and salinity is ~34. We have yet to see any ice,
penguins or whales. However, we have experienced some rolls over 30
degrees. For this crossing, they are saying that it is kind of
mild. However, we have yet to finish it, so who knows what is ahead
of us. We are also seeing a lot of sea birds. Some of those are
the Wondering, Royal, and Black Browed Albatross, the Cape Petral
and Plians (I may be spelling those wrong). Anyway, the Wondering
Albatross are pretty neat because their wing spans are over 10
feet. Close to double that of the Laysan Albatross on Midway
Atoll.
We are expected to cross the
Antarctic Circle on Sunday and I am told that we will not be
"HAZED". However, we will be going through a "CEREMONY"!!!!!!
Semantics!!! I'm just hoping to get by with my hair on my head and
no frost bite.
I also just used the gym on the
boat for the first time. It was great. It is better than the gym
at my apartment complex and possibly better than my high school
gym. It was great to ride a stationary bike while doing a 30 degree
roll. It was like going around a corner, but not having to worry
about wiping out. Fun Stuff.
By the way, some of you may have
been experiencing difficulties with sending me messages directly to
the
jtegeder@sci.uscoastguard. (whatever I told you). Apparently it
is not working, but if you just hit reply to this message, it will
work.
I'm off to get my laundry and go
to bed. Take care and I hope you all are doing well.
Joe Tegeder
P.S. I promise that I will
attempt to send pictures tomorrow or in the next few days. I keep
leaving my camera in my room.
Good Day everyone, from 173
degrees 23 ' E and 67 degrees S. That's right, South of the Circle!
I hope this message finds you
doing well. I am fine and enjoying the cold weather for a change.
We moved right on into icy areas yesterday (not the Ross Ice
Shelf). On our way, we saw two Humpbacks (not me of course), two
seals, one loan Emperor Penguin, and 6 Adelie Penguins. The
penguins are really neat. The look and act like you see on TV...go
figure. They are really humorous to watch. They kind of waddle
around and wave at you and then jump into the water, only to pop out
again a few minutes later (at least these did).
Yesterday, we took our mooring
equipment and instruments out of the hold and we will start putting
them together this morning. We will probably start deploying them
later this week sometime. However, tomorrow I get the pleasure of
going through a traditional rights of passage that a sailor has to
go through after crossing the Antarctic Circle. There are similar
rights of passage for the Arctic Circle, the Equator, the X (which
is the Equator at the date line), the Panama Canal, and there are
probably more but I'm not that sure. Anyway, not exactly sure what
I will be doing, but I'm not allowed to tell you anyways so I'll
just tell you that I'm sure it will involve some sort of cold
water...very cold water.
Speaking of that, the surface
water temp. is -1.48 C....that is about 30 F. For those of you who
do not know, the freezing point of seawater is about -1.8 C.
What else can I tell you, this
place is pretty amazing. It is daylight all day long. Last night
the sun was setting at 11:30 pm...it kind of stayed that way for a
few hours, went down and then began to come back up. The other neat
aspect of sea ice is the emerald green color of the water that
surrounds some of the tiny bergs. To tell you the truth, words
are hard to describe it.
Currently, I'm drinking my
Starbucks coffee (yep, there is a Starbucks everywhere, even on a
Coast Guard Icebreaker).
I'm off to work a little on my
thesis before starting to put together moorings. Please keep in
touch and I'll talk with you soon.
Joe Tegeder
Hello it's me again, your newest
member into the land of the Emperor Penguin! I can't tell you much
but it involved being cold....very cold! The water temp. was a
balmy 33 F and the air temp. was about 20 F (not with wind-chill).
Currently, our Latitude is 70
degrees and 20' S and the Longitude is 175 degrees and 11' E. The
sun is of course shining and there is ice as far as the eye can
see. The ship is moving along at about 6-10 knots. The vessel cuts
through the ice like it is nothing. Once the ship hits the ice,
cracks form and shoot outwards at very high speeds. The ice then is
pushed aside beneath or on top of other ice. If the ship is coming
up to Penguins, they kind of get confused and begin to scurry and
squawk in front of the boat. Pretty soon, they either jump into the
water or they fall through one of the new cracks that was formed by
the boat.
As for the seals, mostly Crab
Eater Seals, they tend to be a bit further from the ship. They kind
of just lay there. If they move at all, it is kind of a slow giggle
away from the ship.
People on board have spotted
both humpbacks and minke whales, but both times I was not fortunate
enough to see them. In case you are wondering, these animals kind
of hang out around the different cracks and openings within the sea
ice. Earlier I said that there was ice as far as I could see, well
all most. There are a lot of holes in it as well at this point. We
will get to the thick ice in a week or so (Ross Ice Shelf). That is
when the real ice breaking begins. There are also certain spots in
this area where the surface water is beginning to freeze. The thin
layer of ice holds together so well, that when the ships wake hits
it, the energy causes the waves to form in the ice as well. It is a
weird thing to see.
Yesterday, I put together all of
my instruments onto the mooring line. It was quite the ordeal. It
is really neat though to see how it looks finally. Before this
point, I' had only seen it on paper. So, the real test will be in
two days when we put it in the water. I'm praying that my
Fluorometers and computer work.
What else to say, lots but I
have been on the computer now for a long time. So I will say good
night to you.
I hope all is well where you
are. Take care,
With best regards,
Joe Teg
Hello Mom and Dad,
I
did survive my initiation. I can't tell you very much about it, but
I will tell you that the air temp. was 20 something, and water temp.
was about 33. Brrrr... Dad, you would have really enjoyed one of
the Naval Academy Midshipman onboard who broke out in a anti-army
song during the festivities. I immediately thought about you and
how you would enjoy the military aspect of this ship.
Anyway, I'm going to try and send out a group e-mail now so I'll say
more in it. Jimmy wrote me and said that he is looking forward to
the trip to NC next week.
Bye the way, Can you send me Oma's phone #? I do not have it
here. I would like to call her/you on Christmas with a Satellite
phone.
Bye for now. Miss you and love you guys.
Love Joey
Hello Dad & Mom
I'm still fine. We are now moving in towards
McMurdo to do the closer Mooring first b/c the chief scientist
forgot an important chemical for the nutrient analyzer. Therefore,
the helicopters will be taking off in a little while to go into the
station and get some and bring it back here. The neat thing about
that is that I gave my camera to one of the pilots to take pictures
of the boat on their way back.
Anyway, as for Danny and his e-mail, tell him
that I think it is either "Jimmy" or "James" or maybe even "Jamesdavid".
If that does not work, tell him just to sign up for another free
account on Yahoo.com. Its easy. Yahoo will be a lot better than
Hotmail.
I have to get going. I'll try and call around
Christmas. I miss and love you guys. Love Joey.
Here's another.
We're in the Ross Sea now at
Lat. 76 deg. 34' S and Long. 172 deg. 23' E. We sent off the
Helicopters a few hours ago to McMurdo station to get two grams of
Copper Sulfate.....someone forgot it!!! I'm just glad that this
$12000 mistake was not mine!!! That equals $6000 per gram....ouch.
Not much more to report but we
will be up for the next few days getting things together to put in
the water.
Bye, Joe
Success
Mooring one is deployed on the North side of Ross Island. I went
out in a Landing Craft to configure the GPS on the mooring once it
was in. It was very cold. While we were waiting for the entire
thing to be in the water, a General Emergency alarm went off on the
boat (Apparently there was smoke in the oil room or something). It
was kind of funny b/c from my advantage point about 400 yards from
the ship, all I saw was about 50 people run in all directions up on
the flight deck. Anyway, everything was fine, but it was the 4th
emergency of this trip. Not sure what that means. The Coast Guard
though are very proficient and "diligent" at getting problems
solved. It is very interesting b/c the average age on the ship is
probably 22. Ok, it is probably more like 32 but there are a lot of
younger people that are very professional.
I'm going to go now. My toes are still numb. We have a great view
of the Volcano (Mt. Arimis on Ross Island) and it is of course sunny
out.
Our lat. is 76 degrees and 59' S and our Long. is 171 degrees 59.78'
E .
Miss you guys, Love Joey
Hello everyone,
These photo's were taken a few
days ago. I gave my camera to one of the helicopter pilots to take
photo's. The one of the mountain is of Mt. Erebus on Ross Island.
If you look closely, you can see the ice edge of B-15 iceberg. This
iceberg calved off sometime last year and it is larger than Rhode
Island.
We should be deploying our last
mooring (the one with my instrumentation on it) sometime within the
next day and we should be finished for Christmas. Yeah.
For those that are interested,
our current coordinates are 77 degrees 12.94' S and 176 degrees
39.125 E. We should be crossing the date line sometime tonight.
Talk with you all soon and Merry
Christmas.
Joe Tegeder
December 3, 2001
Joe,
News from Antarctica!
This is your ship? Right? A true adventure in the spirit of the
frontier. This truly is one of the last frontiers on our planet.
You are a participant! In the Arena!
Love,
Dad
http://www.antarctican.com/pages/news/newsfr.htm
Hello Everyone
Here's some more photo's. Its 6 am here, I
think that is 1 pm on the 22nd there EST. Anyway, I'm up working on
my paper still and I am collecting underway chlorophyll samples for
a girl that is out here from the Virginia Inst. of Marine Science.
I thought that you guys would like more
photo's. Here you go. Enjoy. By the way, our Lat is 76 35.867 S
and Long. is 176 41.4 W . We are heading for the channel at McMurdo
today. We are expected to arrive at McMurdo on Jan. 7th. There is
over 30 miles of ice to go through. We may be hellicoptered off on
Jan. 2nd and spend 5 days at McMurdo. We want to stay on board for
the ice break in and we will also be able to get off on the ice on
New Years Day to check out the animals and play around.
By for now. Please give my best to everyone.
Miss you all.
Love Joey
P.S. I am on the small boat. The buoy is the
mooring that we put out.
  
Hello all,
My instruments are deployed. Yeah. I went
out in the small boat again to help with the deployment of the
mooring from there. To do that, I had to get dressed up in this
suit....Mustang Suit. I look like I'm an X-wing Fighter going to
fight the darkside. The other photo is of the Mooring looking back
on the Polar Star.
Anyway, we have one more station to do for
water samples and then we will begin breaking the ice channel into
McMurdo. I am looking forward to that.
Take care,
Joe Tegeder

Hello All,
I'm so sorry
it did not work. We were able to sign up for 15 min. of phone
time today. The phone was patched through Seattle, so it would
have been really cheap for me, but all the circuits were busy
during my time. I was going to call and talk to Oma and Mom and
Dad, but no luck. It was very frustrating. Anyway, Merry
Christmas. The phone that I used the other day to talk to you mom
and dad went off this morning w/ my advisor. Yep, he's gone. I'm
free for 6 weeks. Yeah. Merry Christmas to me.
Anyway, all is
good. I've all ready had Starbuck's twice today. It is only open
for about 15 minutes here and there, so when it is, you have to
run for your money and get in-line. Surprisingly enough, there is
a lot of waiting in-line on this ship (meal time, ship store,
barber shop...which I did not/will not use, starbucks etc.).
It's lunch
time, bye for now. Merry Christmas.
I miss and
love you all.
I
just got your message. I was unable to make any calls yesterday.
I was a bit disappointed but its all right. We've hit the thicker
ice now (+10 feet thick). We are inching a long. I think that we
have only moved about 5 ship lengths in the last 3 days.
Basically, the turbine engines are going full power and we back up
about 250 feet and begin to go forward. As we hit the ice, the
bow of the ship lifts up onto the ice and the boat comes to a
halt. The weight of the ship breaks about one hundred feet or so
of ice behind the bow. At this point, we back up and do it all
again. We can not back up to far and gain more speed. If we did,
the ship would probably beach itself on the ice and get stuck.
Apparently we have all ready done that once....but I did not know
it. Someone recently mentioned it to me.
I hope Jimmy, Danny and Melissa's
visit is going well. I did not get anyone else's e-mail as of
yet. They could be a float somewhere out there in e-mail land.
Well, write back and tell me what everyone got for Christmas.
I love you all. Give my best to
Mom, Sophie, Danny, Jimmy, Melissa, Grandma and Oma and anyone
else...oh and the cats.
Hello everyone,
Since I'm not able to be there to say it in
person, I figured that I would do it this way. Check the photo!
When I called this morning, It was an
unexpected surprise. I am very happy for the both of you. Since I
am not there to tell you in person, I figured that I would do it
through a photo. Please pick the one you like best.
As for me, we are still inching along slowly.
The ice is pretty thick in this area. Tonight, they will be sending
divers down to check out the shaft so I should be able to get some
good photo's of that. Not much else to report. I will be in
touch.
By the way, Jimmy, did you go and see
"Fellowship of the Rings" yet? How was it? When I'm in New
Zealand, I plan on seeing the movie and trying to take a tour of the
filming locations.
Bye for now. Again, Congrats Dan & Melissa.
Please write to me with details on how you proposed.
Love Joey
Hello everyone,
I forgot to give you my coordinates. Here
they are,
Latitude: 77 degrees 42.707' S
Longitude: 166 degrees 05.703' E
I hope your Christmas vacations are going
well.
Joe
Hello Everyone
Mom & Dad, can you please tell
Danny that I never got his e-mail. I think he sent it to my
Hotmail account. If he did not do that, then who knows where it
is.
Anyway, I'm enclosing a photo of
Kevin and I serving pizza at dinner tonight. Once a week on
Saturdays, different sections of the ship cook the pizza dinner.
Tonight, it was the scientist's turn. But since we are only 4
now, we recruited the officers to help us out....or at least it
was something like that. Anyway, it was fun.
I hope all is still well. It was
great talking with you all this morning. I will write more in the
next few days. We can see McMurdo now, about 9 miles off in the
distance, but we are not there yet.'
Love and miss you guys.
Hi Mom and Dad,
12/31/2001
Thank you very much for the message.
It was very interesting to find out that there are 82" of snow in
Buffalo and that Jon is at Duke now. If you all do talk to them,
please give them my best. I believe I have Aunt Cheryl's address
here, so I think I will send her a postcard from Antarctica (assuming
that they are still at that address).
As for what I did today, absolutely
nothing. Well, I did something. I read a chapter of "The Fellowship
of the Ring" and then I went and watched part four of the planet of
the apes. We just got done w/ dinner (chicken fried steak, mashed
potatoes and cake.....chicken fried steak was okay, but not great).
We, Kevin and I are about to go down to the Science Library and watch
"Rio Bravo", a John Wayne Classic.
Then around 2300 the boat
is going to stop and we will have Ice Liberty and 2 beers each to
celebrate the coming of the new year....2002....scary.
Well, I get to be pushed into the new year before anyone else in my
family. Kind of neat. I have not given to much thought to my new
years resolutions, but I probably should soon.
While I'm thinking about it, dad, can
you please e-mail me any football results over the next few days. I'm
curious to see how the final 10 turns out in NCAA Football. Where
does U. TX. fit into it? Are they playing for the title or did they
get hosed and pushed to some lower bowl bid?
That is it from here. I wished I had
more to tell you. The weather outside is still sunny, and the wind
picked up so the wind chill is pretty cold....I imagine around 0 F.
As for animals, none in sight as of yet. I guess we are to far inland
right now. We are only about 5 miles from McMurdo. Lat. is 77 43'
07.6" S. Long. is 166 07' 09.6" E.
Kevin just came in and was wondering
if you can, can you save the ships track for us and print out a map
after we are done for us? Is that possible w/ the program you are
using? If not, don't worry about it. We were just curious.
Talk with you both later. I love and
miss you both. Have a great day tomorrow.
Love Joey
January 2, 2002
I flew off the boat today by helicopter and landed in the middle of a
mining colony....not really. I'm at McMurdo Station which resembles
what one would think was a mining colony. I am scheduled to leave on
Jan. 5th for Christchurch New Zealand. I'm looking forward to
that, but it may be delayed b/c there is a bad storm that is supposed
to hit tomorrow. Obviously, that will be exciting as well. Yes,
I'm kind of sick like that. It's all an adventure to me. Anyway,
here are some photo's of my day in McMurdo. #945 is the last pic. of
me before I shaved off the beard. I have an after pic. but it is
on another disk.More later.
Joe Enough about that. I'm good. There are white out
conditions today. A storm blew in, bringing high cold strong winds w/
blowing snow. The snow is only dusting the ground, but over the ice,
everything is white. It is pretty fantastic. I don't see this much
in Mississippi!!!
I'm tired of e-mailing here. To check 9 messages takes over an hour
b/c it is so freaking slow. I miss my Cable Modem!!!
Love you guys. Joey
January 4, 2002
Hello Everyone, We are about to fly out, but I wanted to send
photo's from this afternoon. My friends and I did a hike up to
Observation hill (~742ft) and then we went down to the dive holes to
see seals. I have to get going.
Joe
January 8, 2002
Hello
We had a good day today. We went up to the top of a mountain today
via a Gondola and then we rode down w/ a Mountain Bike. It was a lot of
fun but now we are tired and will be waking up at 6 am to go to the
North Island.
I also wanted to let you know that I never got your last e-mail that
you mentioned on the phone yesterday about our relatives #. Not sure
what happened.
Well, I'm off to read and go to bed. I love and miss you guys.
Joey
1/22/02
Hello everyone, I know that this may be a lot of
photo's but there is something here for each of you. The really green
landscape is taken outside Hamilton New Zealand and it is where they
filmed the shire portions for the Lord of the Rings movie. The picture
of the giant troll over the movie theater is also for that movie.; That
theater is where the movie premier was in December. Yes, I did see the
12:45 am showing there. The seats were very plush. The mountain right
before those pictures is where Mt. Doom was shot. All the pictures shot
before those were on the North Island up near Auckland.
The pictures after the Troll was on the South
Island taken over the last few days. The pictures of my friend Kevin and
I sitting at a table with three other people is a very interesting
story. When we went diving up in Poor Knights Island (those are the
first few photo's), we met them at a cafe that we had lunch at. They
were so fantastic that they invited us over to their house near Auckland
for dinner one night. They had a beautiful home as you can see in a few
of the pictures. Thanks Dave, Annete and Deb!!!!
The pictures of me behind the wheel of the car is
my first experience w/ driving on the left side of the road. I think I
did pretty well. The cows were taken on the highway between Haast and
Queenstown. They were just crossing the road...who knows where they were
headed.
Currently, my friends and I are in Queenstown for
a few days before returning to Christchurch to finish my trip back down
in Antarctica. We do not want this New Zealand experience to end but I
guess it has to at some point. It is a lovely country and I would highly
recommend it to everyone. I have to go, this has taken forever to get
set up. Take care all.
Joseph E. Tegeder
(Antarctic Adventure!)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
1/27/02
Here is a photo from my Queenstown Nevis Bungy
jump. It was over 400 feet, what a rush. I am going to attach other
photo's as well to a few e-mail's b/c these files are too large to
send by hotmail.
Also, I wanted to let you all know that I will
be flying back to Antarctica tomorrow (Jan. 29th). So I will not be
able to check this e-mail account until after March 14th. Please send
all other e-mails after Feb. 3rd to the following address on the ship
jtegeder@sci.uscoastguard.net .
Thanks,
Joe


1/28/02
I will call you tomorrow when we get to McMurdo.
I am in NZ right now w/ all of my cold weather stuff on and I am so
hot. Got to go outside now. I'll call soon. Sorry about not calling.
I miss you guys. Love,
Joey
2/2/02
Hello everyone,
I wanted to let you all know that I am back on
board the Polar Star now. I will be at this address for another five
weeks or so (around March 10th). Until that time, please send me
messages at this address.
We will spend the next five days retrieving our
moorings and sampling stations. After that, my advisor and everyone else
will go back to McMurdo. Myself and another friend will stay on board to
help with another project that will sample stations between here and
Valparaiso Chile. That project is called SOFeX (Southern Ocean Iron
Enrichment Experiment). Basically, scientists from several universities
have added a lot of Iron into the water in the Southern Ocean to see how
it effects production. The boat that I am on will be the last ship to go
along the enriched area to see the results.
I hope all is well in your neck of the woods. The
super bowl is in two days and I look forward to seeing the game on tape
(it will be flown out here from McMurdo right after the game is over).
So please do not ruin the out come for me.
Take care,
Joe Tegeder
2/3/02
Hello Mom and Dad,
I'm back on the boat again. We have made it back
out of the channel and have successfully escorted the Greenwave (the
supply ship for McMurdo) into McMurdo. Surrounding the ship right now is
Beaufort Island and a large tabular iceberg. There are several smaller
icebergs around as well w/ a few Adelie Penguins on them.
Also, we just learned that McMurdo is fogged in.
That means that the Admiral of the Coast Guard who flew out here
yesterday with us can not be helicoptered off from here. That means that
we may have to turn around and go back in. As far as science goes, that
is bad....but that may mean another chance for me to see the Killer
Whale Pods that everyone but me has seen. How frustrating is that? The
Orcas are apparently at the mouth of the channel that we just made in
the ice. I was watching yesterday but no luck.
Besides all of that, things are well and are
normal for ship board living. Last night was bingo night. I had no luck
but it was still fun to hang out with the crew. Tonight is steak night.
Should be a good meal. The food on the ship is ten times better than at
McMurdo. I am really glad to be back here.
That is it for me. Talk to you soon.
Love Joey
2/6/02
Hello everyone,
We recovered the mooring today which contained my
instruments. Everything was intact but there were several major problems
that occurred once we looked at the housing for the computer. First,
there was a drop of water that got into the housing and on the data
logger. The second problem, which may or may not have been a symptom of
the first, was that data was only recorded for one day. It should have
been more like 40-50 days. I'm really not sure what this means for my
project or my masters degree.
We have been collecting suspended particle samples
along the way at several sites, and my advisor says that I can use this
data but I don't know. It would require a lot more work because it is on
a completely different subject and I would basically starting over. It
is kind of a confusing situation. The thing is, I had no control over
this happening...well not really anyway. The computer program was done
by another student. I have no programming skills what so ever (And I
think, hope, this is understood by my advisor). All I can say is that I
did my best. I am in good spirits but a little disappointed.
I'll write more in a few days. Miss you all.
Love, Joey
2/8/02
Hello everyone,
We have finished all of our work out here. The
recovery of both moorings went well. Although it was really cold when we
did it, no one was injured and only a few instruments fell victim to
mother nature. One of such instruments just so happened to be the
pressure housing for the data logger on my instruments. Sometime during
the first day (out of 44) there was a short circuit, causing everything
to stop working. Yes I was disappointed and fearing the worse regarding
my thesis. However, the chief scientist has agreed to let me use
previous cruise extracted chlorophyll data and this years extracted chl
data as well. This will allow for me to continue with roughly the same
topic and avoid having to start from scratch on a new project. Anyway,
I'm just glad that the moorings were recovered and my advisor seems
pleased with the operation and project.
We are currently packing up and getting ready to
bring on more scientists for this next part of the cruise. I will be
staying on board to take part in another project looking at Iron in the
Southern Ocean. The transect that we are scheduled to do is right around
55 degrees south. That puts us right in the worst weather areas of the
Southern Ocean. I'm not sure, but I think this is going to be a bumpy
ride. We are scheduled to be into Valparaiso Chile now around March 6th.
That will give me a week there before returning to the U.S. I can hardly
believe that the trip is almost over. Wow. It seems like yesterday that
my advisor first told me about this project. Time fly's.
Not much else to record from here. It is still
daylight here for 24 hours but the sun is getting lower and it appears
to almost set at times. We should have our first sunset of the cruise in
about another week or so. I'm looking forward to seeing the Southern
Cross Again. I really like that constellation.
Well, bye for now. I hope you are all doing well.
Enjoy these photo's. Some are of the buoy that was on the mooring (it
was covered in ice when we got to it). Others are just random ice shots.
 
 
 

Super bergs ice-jam
McMurdo
Washington DC. USA. 23 November 2001
Two super icebergs have
caused an unprecedented ice-jam in the Ross Sea, forcing US
authorities to call in a second icebreaker to try to open a channel
to McMurdo Base.
The bergs are so large
they have upset the currents and and wind regimes of the Ross Sea,
impeding the seasonal pack ice break-up, according to the US
National Ice Center.
Now for the first time
the US Coast Guard is sending its two Polar class icebreakers, Polar
Sea and Polar Star, to the Ross Sea to break a channel through fast
ice that extends for around 118 km.
"The unprecedented ice is
certain to make the task of breaking into McMurdo difficult, if not
daunting," National Science Foundation official Erick Chiang said,
according to the US program's news weekly, Antarctic Sun.
Antarctic sea ice hampers
access to many of the continent's bases, but usually breaks out with
seasonal warming in summer. Sea access is vital for heavy cargo and
fuel deliveries - and particularly for McMurdo, Antarctica's largest
base.
The National Ice Center's
Ice Products Branch Chief, Christi Montgomery, confirmed that the
icebergs C-16 and, particularly B-15, were both to blame this year.
The bergs broke off the Ross Ice Shelf in early 2000. At the time
B-15 was the largest iceberg ever measured, at about 11,000 square
km.
Both bergs have drifted
west and taken up positions to the north of Ross Island, where
McMurdo is located. B-15 now stretches between Beaufort Island and
Franklin Island, and is upsetting the whole flow of ice in the
southern Ross Sea, Montgomery said. It could stay where it is for
years, or break up further and block the passage to McMurdo itself.
The Polar ships are
capable of cutting through 1.8 metre ice in constant motion, and
have a backing and ramming capability of ice up to 6.4 metres thick.
The National Ice Center's satellite imagery shows the ice to be
broken ranges from 1.3 metres to 2.9 metres in thickness.
Polar Star was already on
southern icebreaking duty this year and is expected at the ice edge
at about 28 December. Polar Sea, which is undergoing shipyard work,
should reach its sister ship by early January.
Normally supply ships can
enter McMurdo Sound by the second week of January. This year the
National ice Center predicts the shipping channel will be ready
around January 20. --
www.antarctican.com
Washington, DC. USA. 8 January 2002
Unusually thick sea ice is
snarling Antarctic shipping programs, but double the ice-breaking power,
and a lucky break, mean the vital sea channel into McMurdo is now open.
The US Coast Guard sent its two Polar class icebreakers, Polar Sea
and Polar Star, to the Ross Sea to break the channel, which is necessary
for a tanker and a freight ship to reach McMurdo for the annual resupply.
The US National Science Foundation's representative in Christchurch,
Arthur Brown, said today the channel had been recently cut to the
McMurdo port area and was now being opened to the desired width.
"We were very fortunate that a storm just before Christmas greatly
alleviated the problem," Brown said. The storm blew open part of the sea
ice, but the US program still decided to make use of both ships.
"We're now pretty much on schedule," Brown said. "I couldn't have
said that a month ago."
McMurdo's difficulties were largely attributed to the super icebergs,
B-15 and C-16, which broke off the Ross Ice Shelf in early 2000 and have
now run aground to the north of Ross Island, where the US and New
Zealand bases are located.
The bergs are so large they have upset currents and winds of the Ross
Sea, impeding the seasonal pack ice break-up, according to the US
National Ice Center. However, Brown said is had also proven to be a
tough year for ice, which was carrying a greater than usual snow burden.
Around the continent, similar conditions have forced radical change
on at least two other national programs. The British ship Ernest
Shackleton was forced back by Weddell Sea ice, and in Prydz Bay,
expeditioners have been airlifted from the beset Australian resupply
ship Polar Bird.
The Shackleton was blocked 200 nautical miles from Halley base by the
ice and the 60 people aboard waited for two weeks for the ice to break
up before the British Antarctic Survey decided instead to head for South
Georgia, and then the Falklands to refuel.
A BBC correspondent in Antarctica said four passengers would then
return to Britain without having reached their goal., but most were
expected to try to reach Halley again in a few weeks' time.
The Polar Bird has been immobile for nearly four weeks and a
helicopter transfer to the other Australian ship, Aurora Australis, was
completed yesterday. Aurora is now on its way to Mawson station with the
expeditioners.
Only Polar Bird's crew and a couple of specialists, such as a
meteorologist, have been left on board. A change in the weather is seen
as vital for the ship to break out. The Australian Antarctic Division's
Kim Pitt said conditions were beyond the ice-breaking capability of
Aurora. -- www.antarctican.com

McMurdo Station
Sitting on the southern tip of Ross Island, 2,200 miles (3.500 km)
due-south of New Zealand, McMurdo serves as the logistics hub for
half the continent. In addition to the primary focus of the work
here, science, a good part of the 1,000 summer residents (180 in the
winter), process the thousands of tons of cargo brought in each year
by air and by sea. Without this effort, there would be no Field
Camps; there would be no station at the South Pole.

Lake Hoare in the McMurdo Dry Valleys
Out in the field, the science's the thing. The Field Camp at Lake
Hoare is one of several in the region, and is the one that I had the
pleasure to work at for a few days in 1995. The Dry Valleys are so
called because it doesn't snow there. The terrain prevents the right
conditions from occurring that permit precipitation. Lake Hoare, for
example, along with Lake Bonney and Lake Fryxell, is nestled between
the high walls of the Taylor valley, tucked between tall glaciers.
Moist air can't clear the terrain to bring in the snow. Protected,
the frozen lake systems provide an excellent opportunity to study
simple life forms surviving in amazingly harsh conditions.
Power surge blacks out base
Hobart,
Australia. 13 November 2001
Expeditioners at
Australia's Casey station have escaped harm after their power and
communications were knocked out by an electrical power surge.
The surge triggered automatic
fire extinguishers and caused local damage to station installations
but, despite early reports, did not cause any outbreaks of fire.
It robbed the station of all
power for 15 minutes in minus seven degree temperatures on Monday
afternoon local time.
Emergency generators re-powered
Casey's living and medical quarters, the Australian Government's
Antarctic Division said. All power and communications were then
restored about 12 hours later.
"What might have been a major
setback for the station...has quickly been set right," said the
division's director, Dr Tony Press. He praised the response of
station staff.
Fire is regarded as a special
danger to Antarctic bases because of high winds and dry conditions.
The $US3 million state-of-the-art Bonner research laboratory at
Britain's Rothera station was completely destroyed by a blaze fought
during a night-time blizzard on 28 September.
With the commencement of
seasonal scientific work, a total of 51 people were at Casey when
the surge hit around 3 pm. Its cause is being investigated by
technical experts.
Initial communications problems
led Antarctic Division headquarters staff to fear the Casey
expeditioners had been forced to extinguish a number of fires.
However a subsequent
investigation found that the "fires" were in fact the explosive
rapid response fire extinguishers, which are thought to have blown
the roofs off two electricity substations.
More concerning was the
potential damage to Casey's main satellite communications control
room, but the division confirmed all communications had been
restored. -- www.antarctican.com
Antarctic Tasmania:
The Other Great Southern Land

Links Forged in
the Past
Situated at 43° South, the main island of
Tasmania
is at the crossroads of the Australian tropics and the 'roaring
forties' and 'furious fifties' of the Southern Ocean. Although the
climate is mild, the city of Hobart is closer to Antarctica than it
is to tropical Australia, being approximately 2650 kilometres (1643
miles) from the continent and 2850 kilometres (1767 miles) from
Cairns. But up until 55 million years ago, Tasmania had even
closer
links with Antarctica. As part of the
supercontinent Gondwana, Tasmania was located on the northern tip of
what is now Victoria Land, near the Ross Sea. Many of the State's
plants and animals are related to those species that once inhabited
the cool, moist forests of prehistoric Antarctica.
In more recent history,
the very first Antarctic explorers recognised the privileged
position of Tasmania as a rich repository of equipment and fresh
Island produce.
Tasmania's
place in polar history was first
established in 1773, when Captain Tobias Furneaux, the consort of
Captain James Cook, anchored his ship Adventure in the Hobart
region. Having just accompanied Cook's Resolution on the first
confirmed crossing of the Antarctic Circle, Furneaux was grateful to
find a "most excellent harbour" and a countryside "very pleasent
[sic]
the sides of the hills covered with large trees and very
thick
The Lagoons
abounds [sic] with trout and several other sort
of Fish
." He declared the area " capable of producing every
necessary of life [sic], and a climate the finest in the world."
This anchorage, on Bruny Island, is now called Adventure Bay.

Cook's Resolution among icebergs |

Tobias Furneaux |

Roal Amundsen in Hobart |
Captain Cook and his crew were
the first people ever to cross the Antarctic Circle. Cook eventually
journeyed beyond the Circle three times during his voyage of
1773-1774. Then in 1777, after discovering the Prince Edward Islands
and exploring Îles Kerguelen, he sailed to Bruny Island in Tasmania
to rest and resupply. His reports of enormous seal colonies "found
on the Coasts of all these Southern lands [sic]" encouraged sealers
and whalers in the 1790s to use Tasmania as a base from which to
launch their expeditions to the subantarctic and beyond. The
Scottish sealer James Weddell was just one in a long list of
international Antarctic luminaries to take advantage of the
deep-water harbour and other amenities available in early "Hobart
Town". Explorers Jules-Sébastien-César Dumont D'Urville, Sir James
Clark Ross and Carsten Egeberg Borchgrevink, scientist Sir Douglas
Mawson, and Roald Amundsen, the first person to reach the South
Pole, all took advantage of Tasmania's unique links with the frozen
continent.
Meeting Future
Challenges, Today
Established in 1804, Hobart is today favoured as a major staging
port for many national and international expeditions. It is also the
permanent home port of the Australian National Antarctic Research
Expeditions and those of the Institut Français pour la Recherche et
la Technologie Polaires. The Tasmanian Antarctic community,
including the State Government and local enterprise, welcome and
support all expeditions to and from Hobart with an
ever-increasing range of support capabilities and expertise.
New communication technologies mean that these goods and services
can now be exported to international Antarctic operators with
increasing efficiency. Supplying everything from hospitality or
provisions to the latest technology and information developments,
Tasmanians continue to advance Antarctic interests in the new
millennium.
Hobart, Tasmania:
Supporting Antarctic Exploration

Over the last two centuries
Hobart has played an important role in supporting and resupplying
many exploratory and scientific expeditions to the Antarctic
continent, firmly establishing Hobart as a major point on the way
South like on the way back North.
The famous Antarctic explorers
that took advantage of Hobart support capabilities include:
Biscoe
Biscoe's voyage was fraught with difficulties. After discovering
Enderby Land-now part of the Australian Antarctic Territory-in March
1831, he sailed his damaged ship and ailing crew to Hobart. There
the Tula was anchored with the help of another Antarctic luminary,
James Weddell. The people of Hobart gave Biscoe a warm welcome,
treating his crew for exhaustion and scurvy and assisting in the
repair of the Tula. So impressed was Biscoe by Hobart that later,
after sighting the Antarctic Peninsula and becoming only the third
person to circumnavigate Antarctica, he brought his family to live
in the city. But poor health forced his early retirement, and in
1843, generous donations from the Tasmanian public enabled Biscoe to
take his final voyage, with his family, back to England.
Unfortunately he died en route, and was buried at sea.
Weddell
The great Antarctic explorer James Weddell (1787-1834) visited
Tasmania in 1831 and helped anchor Biscoe's ailing ship returning
from Enderby Land. In a sealing voyage from 1822-24, Weddell had
sailed his ships Jane and Beaufoy as far as 74º 15' S, in what is
now know as the Weddell Sea -a record that remained unbroken until
1911.
Dumont D'urville
In December 1839 Jules-Sébastien-César Dumont d'Urville (1790-1842)
anchored his ships L'Astrolabe and La Zélée in Hobart. Already
shortstaffed due to an outbreak of scurvy, his crew now suffered
fever and dysentery. Seventeen men died during the voyage from
Sumatra to Tasmania, and another six died in Hobart. The Hobart
Cemetery still features a memorial and rose garden commemorating the
French sailors.
After taking on new recruits
in Hobart the two ships, sheathed in copper for protection against
the ice, left port on January 2 1840. On January 19 the French
sighted land. "Unfortunately an unbroken calm prevented us for
approaching it to make the matters certain," Dumont D'Urville wrote,
"Nevertheless, joy reigned on board; henceforth the success of our
enterprise was assured." On January 21 the expedition managed to
reach shore, unfurl the Tricolour, and toast their success with a
bottle of Bordeaux. The next two weeks were spent charting the
coastline of what Dumont D'Urville called Terre Adélie. The only
early explorer to name his discovery after his wife (Adèle), he was
killed with her and their son in a train accident near Versailles in
1842.
Ross
a friend of Sir John Franklin -the Governor and himself a polar
explorer- Ross (1800-1862) and his crew were extended a warm welcome
when they anchored in Hobart in August 1840. After the completion of
the Rossbank Magnetic Observatory, Ross left with his ships Erebus
and Terror in November to explore deep into Antarctic waters. By New
Years' Day, 1841, they had crossed the Antarctic Circle; both
milestones were marked by celebrations during which even the Erebus'
goat got drunk. Eventually Ross located the South Magnetic Pole, but
was prevented form reaching it by impenetrable ice, later named the
Ross Ice Shelf. However, he did make several geographical
discoveries, including the Ross Sea, Admiralty Range, Franklin
Island, Ross Island, Cape Crozier, the two volcanoes Mount Erebus
and Mount Terror, and Victoria Land. He returned to Hobart, then
continued his quest
.
Borchgrevink
Carsten Borchgrevink (1864-1934), a schoolmate of Roald Amundsen,
led the first party to ever winter in Antarctica. The party, sailing
out of Hobart, included Tasmanian scientist Louis Bernacchi
Scott
En route to relieve Scott's (1868-1912) Discovery expedition, iced
in at McMurdo Sound, Scott's support ships Terra Nova and Morning
visited Hobart in November 1903
Mawson
Tasmania played an important role in the feats and discoveries of
the Mawson-led Australasian Antarctic Expedition of 1911-1912.
Tasmania's Macquarie Island was a staging point in the first use of
an intercontinental radio link with Antarctica. Macquarie Island
made great impressions on Mawson (1882-1958) who made great efforts
to ensure its protection
Amundsen
In March 8, 1912, Roald Amundsen (1872-1928) entered Hobart's
General Post Office to send the telegram that told the world he had
been the first to reach the South Pole. His barquentine Fram
remained anchored off Sandy Bay for the duration of the Norwegian's
stay in Hobart. During his stay he was elected as an honorary member
of the Derwent Sailing Squadron. The DSS still possesses the letter
Amundsen wrote thanking them for this honour, and it is possible to
view the letter by contacting the club's Manager. It is also
possible to sleep in the same bed in which Amundsen slept as a guest
at Hadley's Orient Hotel, on Murray Street in the centre of Hobart.
And much, much more
.
Shackleton
In December 1914 Captain A.E. Mackintosh visited Hobart in the
Aurora (also used by Mawson) to collect 26 huskies from the Nubeena
Quarantine Station in Taroona, Hobart. The dogs were to be used to
haul supplies to food depots in the Ross Sea area for Shackleton's
(1874-1922) International Trans-Antarctic Expedition. Little did
they know what was happening to Shackleton's ship, Endurance, on the
other side of the continent
Antarctic Animals:
Tasmania's First Tourists

Tasmania's connections
with Antarctica and the Southern Ocean are evident in its natural
heritage. Many of the birds and mammals encountered by Antarctic
expeditioners may also be found along the State's coasts, or in its
offshore waters. Some of these species, such as the Southern right
whale, had an enormous influence on the economic development and
history of the State. Macquarie Island's fur and elephant seals-and
the industry they attracted-were instrumental in the discovery and
exploration of Antarctica. And the Little penguin, although not
found in Antarctica, is also a reminder of Tasmania's proximity to
its larger, Southern cousins.
Feathered Friends
Perhaps the most obvious example of Tasmania's link to the South is
the relative prevalence of an Antarctic icon: the penguin. Although
penguins occur in several regions along Australia's southern coast,
Tasmania is especially favoured, as both a temporary feeding ground
or a more permanent base. Rockhopper (Eudyptes chrysocome),
erect-crested (E. sclateri), Snares (E. robustus) and king (Aptenodytes
patagonicus) penguins are occasional visitors, but the Little
penguin (Eudyptula minor) has set up home in numerous inshore
locations. Also known as the Blue or Fairy penguin, these small,
noisy birds have burrows in Bicheno, in the State's northeast, and
at Low Head, Devonport, and the aptly-titled Penguin on the north
coast. There is also a substantial rookery on the edge of Adventure
Bay on Bruny Island, near Hobart, and not far from where Captains
Furneaux and Cook anchored on their respective voyages of discovery.
Although 'true' Antarctic
penguins-such as the gentoo (Pygoscelis papua), Adélie (P. adeliae)
and chinstrap (P. antarctica) penguins-are only rare vagrants to
Tasmania, several other species of Antarctic seabirds are common
sights along the State's coasts and bays. The sooty shearwater (Puffinus
griseus), which has a circumpolar distribution, is especially
abundant in southeastern Tasmania. In autumn, the Wilson's
storm-petrel (Oceanites oceanicus) can been seen as it migrates
north from its Antarctic breeding grounds; in spring it returns to
Tasmanian skies, flying back to Antarctica. Blue petrels (Halobaena
caerulea), Kerguelen petrels (Pterodroma brevirostris), white-headed
petrels (P. lessoni) and the grey-headed albatross (Diomedea
chrysostoma) are regular winter guests, while the magnificent royal
(D. epomophora) and wandering (D. exulans) albatrosses may be
sighted from winter to early spring. The shy albatross (D. cauta),
which breeds around Tasmania, occurs throughout the year. The
largest of the southern mollymawks (smaller albatrosses), this
beautiful bird has a wingspan measuring up to 2.6 metres (8.5 feet).

Little Penguin
(Eudypt | |